We’re going to be pushing the limits of our cameras, lenses and technique so equipment selection becomes critical. Relevant advice may help to stem the flow of cash.
Hockey Photography with 18-200mm f3.5-f5.6 lens
Hockey Photography with 50mm f1.8 lens
Hockey Photography with 85mm f1.8 lens
Shortly after I acquired my D80 I wanted to use it to shoot my son’s hockey games (I gave up trying to use film for hockey a long time ago). Not really the games, but rather practice sessions and pickup hockey. At his real games I have been using a video camera. That is an even more complicated story. Suffice to say video, is much more difficult than still photography for the same level of results. Video has its place but there’s nothing like a good photo. I’d like to be doing both video and stills at his games but I can’t get the females of the family to operate the video camera, something about too cold and boring.
I knew the 18-200mm f3.5 – f5 lens that I had was not going to cut the mustard. Surely someone on the net must have written something that would help me figure out what I needed. No such luck, I searched and searched (I guess there just aren’t enough hockey players, or maybe they’re too busy playing to worry with cameras). I did learn that some professional photographers at NHL games had the entire rink wired with monster flashes but this wasn’t going to help me down at the local rinks. From my video experience I knew that “real” hockey rinks are not lighted for TV like NHL rinks, meaning I would need more expensive camera gear (just what my wife wanted to hear).
From the camera point of view hockey has several attributes that distinguish it from other sports. Weird crappy inconsistent dim artificial lighting. White background. High speed action at a medium distance. Surrounded by glass and boards. Nasty pucks. The white ice does provide one nice benefit by reflecting the light back up onto the subjects.
I was left to figure it out for myself. I borrowed an old 50mm f1.8 manual focus lens, stuck it on the D80 and went down to the rink. There were several things that needed to be researched: The first decision to be made was the location to shoot from. This starts with, through the glass or over the glass. Through the glass puts you at a similar height to the players giving a certain look to the photo’s, while over the glass, you get a similar perspective to that of the fans. Through the glass reduces the light by maybe a third of a stop and gives it a slight tint, not a big deal. The real kicker is the dirt and puck marks on the glass. NHL rinks, the glass is cleaned, real rinks the glass is never cleaned, so shooting through the glass is out.
Shooting over the glass means you can’t stand in front of the fans or they will start throwing things at you. The fans tend to locate in the middle of the rink. You can either get a big lens and shoot from the stands with the fans or shoot from the ends of the rink. In many rinks you can’t stand at the ends because they are blocked off. You would also have to dodge flying pucks as they miss the goal. This leaves the corners, which by happen stance turns out to be the best position anyway. Most of the action happens in front of the goal. You might think that the best view would be from just beside the goalie where you would catch the offensive player making his shot. As it turns out there is usually a defense man’s big padded rear end in the way, after all, that is his job. So that leaves the sides, which is where the corner is located. The corner location has other advantages. The high glass behind the goal usually steps down to something a little less high, meaning you don’t have to bring a huge ladder to get over the lower glass. If you stand right at the step down you can easily hide behind the higher glass when an errant puck comes your way. The first time a puck makes a bee line for your head you will side step behind the high glass, smile and wave your one finger salute. One of those small three rung step ladders should get you over the top of the low glass.
Now that you have a location, you must pick a focal length. My 18-200mm is not a bad choice for the DX sensor size of a D80. At 200 mm it takes you out to the center line There isn’t much need to go beyond, as superfluous players are usually blocking your sight. Close in, anything under the 18mm loses a lot of its usefulness because at these distances you will be looking down on the tops of the helmets (probably not the shot you’re looking for). Now the bad news, no one makes an 18-200mm lens that is fast enough so we’re going to have to come up with a compromise.
I don’t like to use shutter speeds below 1/1000 for most action sports such as hockey. Sure you can get some interesting effects with motion blur at lower shutter speeds, but you want the lower speeds to be optionally employed at the right time and not mandated by equipment limitations.
White balance is going to be tricky. The illumination in the rinks does not provide a consistent color temperature, the color spectrum is all over the place. About the best you can do is take a custom white balance for the area of the rink that you expect the most photos such as the slot. Point the camera at the ice in the slot and do the custom white balance.
My D80 at ISO 100 is not the most sensitive camera in the world, and to top it off, it starts to get really noisy beyond ISO 800. The lighting in an average rink gives me a camera setting that looks something like 1/500 second shutter with an f1.8 aperture and ISO 800 sensitivity. You’ll probably notice several things right off the bat. First we’re not up at 1/1000 of a second, meaning we are going to have issues with motion blur. Second, f1.8 is beyond the capabilities of most lenses. Third, we’re pushing the noise limits of the D80.
It would take pages to give you all the rationalizations for the different lens choices. When making my choice I went through a great many. I don’t want to go through them now as I think anyone reading this would get bored and I know I would be bored silly writing.
Based on twenty hours shooting hockey from the corners I’m going to make this generalization. I think that roughly 80% of the good photo’s come in near the 85mm focal length. At shorter lengths the significant players are turned away from the camera and at longer lengths there are too many other players in the way. While a zoom lens may get you a few other shots you’re going to lose in cost and you are not going to get the big aperture. You guessed it. I selected an 85mm f1.8 auto focus prime lens. This lens gives an exposure that is just barely adequate in several areas.
Now the bad news and I’ll say this, I don’t think the fault lies with the lens. The issue is that with f1.8 we have a shallow depth of field requiring good auto focus and the D80 just can’t keep up both in terms of acquiring initial focus as well as tracking the moving subject. The Nikor 85mm lens is internally focused meaning that internal elements move as it focuses at different distances and it is quite fast. Once the D80 decides to start driving the lens the lens gets where it needs to be reasonably fast. It seems to be the D80’s decision making lag time that is at fault. I find at least 50% of my shots are suffering from poor focus. To fix this problem I’m going to need a more expensive camera. Right now I can just see my wife refuting my careful logic with feminine precision even though there is nothing too good for our son. The next question I sometimes ask myself, just to be tormenting is…. If I had unlimited funds what lens would I get. In my imagination I now have the best professional camera from Canon or Nikon and I’m going to buy a lens for hockey. You know, I might just stick with the 85mm, to heck with the monster f2.8 zoom.
Here is a little tickler. The photos I like the best, have very little to do with the essential action of the game while my son only likes the action shots. Like fine wine, I suspect his viewpoint will change with age.
Until next time, “Keep Your Stick On The Ice” or at least tell your son to do it, it’s his stick.
No one in his right mind should be messing with cameras if he could still be playing hockey.
Addendum:
Observing my son, I’ve found that the sporting life of a youth can be a very intense experience. A photographic record can be much appreciated and can also build a powerful bond with the participating parent that should last for eternity.
With a little tickle, Paul Lester over on his blog has written a similar article to this but for basketball, it’s a great read, not only for basketball. Many of his insights can be applied to other action photography situations including hockey.
I’d appreciate it if anyone with an opinion, would contribute to this action photography/parent kid knowledge base, by adding their own voice through comments to these articles or other writings on the net. It would also be useful if we could establish some sort of linkage system between articles as I’m sure many of the experiences are mutually related.
Coach demonstrates good cross checking form, make sure he doesn’t get up.






Hi
I found your article interesting. My daughter is playing in her 2 year ringette. I have the same D80 and 18-200 VR combo as you. I also had to push my camera to the limits and after all said and done – still underexposured. I did alot of post proceeding
I recently purchased the 70-200 VR and found the shooting to be alot better with aperature of 2.8 however found the same problem with you – shallow depth of focus and D80 inability to focus quickly on the quick action. I will say that the new lense has given me over 1 fstop or better.
I will say that my daughter at 6 years old means that the game is not that fast. I can imagine what it will be like once speed enters into the formula.
So what to do? Obivously my D80 is the problem. Should I get the D300 (perhaps 1 fstop better) or D3/D700 (2 fstops better)?
Your thoughts on this?
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BobW (Raymond, I think the requirements go something like this: For ringette/hockey low light capability it’s 1/1000 sec shutter speed and picture quality at least at the level of the D80 at ISO 400. With an aperture of f1.8 the D80 then needs two more f stops of sensitivity. Your f2.8 is a bit slower than the f1.8 I’ve been using. So you’re looking at probably a 3 stop faster camera.
Now if the image is in focus you will have a quality capture.
I suspect that even with the best cameras only some of the shots are going to be in focus. I’ve never used one of those top of the line cameras like the D3, but I have a hard time believing that they can do an adequate job focusing an f2.8 lens with it’s shallow depth of field at the speed the players are moving at. I know many people claim that the cameras can and I do know that it is technically feasible, but the cameras are too cheap. I think they just get the focus in the ball park and you get maybe one in three sharp shots. The camera has to be able to predict where the target is going to be when the shutter opens and that is a tall order. I’ve designed systems with similar requirements and the sensors alone would cost more than ten thousand dollars.
We do know that the second tier cameras cannot focus fast enough. So if I had the money I would go for the D700 and hope for the best. Unlike a pro you are a father and you need to get “the” shot, not just any good looking poster shot. When your daughter makes that special move you have to get it and nothing else will do. Way more difficult than the “Decisive Moment”.
All that said, my experience with my son, is that video is King by a long shot, but only if you can do a reasonable job. Raw footage sucks. Video is at least ten times harder than still photography. If your daughter is really into ringette or any other action activity, then the time spent on decent video will be worth it. But you’re still going to need those action stills.
If you read all I’ve written on this subject then you will know that I settled on still camera for practice and Video for game time. At practice sessions you can take many more liberties to get a good shot than at game time. You can even get out on the ice with a 50mm f1.4 lens and have at her.
Good luck and good shooting.)
Well with the blessing of my wife (who saw the pictures that I have taken with my 70-200 on the D80), I purchased the D700 in September in Edmonton. I also later purchased the battery pack and the 24-70 Nikon Pro lense.
The following weekend, we travelled to Banff and I tried out the camera. I can only say that I could immediately see the difference this makes over the D80. I won’t elaborate but this camera rocks! My wife and my sister-inlaw was impressed of some of the outdoor portrait pictures I took of them and their family.
In the arenas, I’m shooting at 1/800, F2.8 at ISO 3200 and getting fairly decent pictures without pushing the camera to its limits. This camera shoots at the higher ISO with very low noise. I can say that ISO 800 on the D80 is noisier than ISO 3200 on the D700. Focusing is still touchy so I’m trying manually focusing and taking alot of shots. I still feel that I have more fstops to work with so I’m experimenting with increasing the fstop to increase depth of field. I’ll let you know what I find.
I am one of the coaches assistant on my daughers ringette team so I can take pictures on the bench and not having to shoot thru the glass avoiding the marks and scratches. Actually, I found that if you shoot close to the glass, this helps with the pictures (marks and scratches). The only problem is that I would like to shoot somewhere around the faceoff circle in the offensive zone or a little deeper towards the goal line to get that shot. Unfortunately I find that the referees get in the way. there is no substitute for being on the ice and shooting in practices.
I just purchased the neutral expodisc this week and tried it out at my daughters swimming lessons. I’ve always had white balance problems with shooting in the swimming pool. The expodisc works really well!
I have entered my metadata from all the photos that I have taken and have to agree with you that 85 mm is the sweet spot for photos at the rink.
Ray, You are truly blessed to have a wife that supports the purchase of expensive photo tools. I think I’m turning green and it’s not the lights in the rink.
I have to sell one of my cars before I can get my wife’s blessing for more photo equipment, and like you have had my eye on the D700.
I’d like to see some rink shots from your D700 if that’s not too much trouble. Oh and an exploration of the D700’s capability to focus when doing action shots.
Hi Ray
We are looking for a photographer to be available
at a Girls Rep. Hockey Tourn. in Whitby Dec 5,6,7
one that does the action shots and then sells them
Do you know of anyone?
Please advise
Thanks
Kim
Well Bob.
First you don have to go as fast as 1/1000 for taking sharp images.
I’m using a Olympus E-520 with 70-200 2,8 lens on when im takin pics on icehockey.
And i usually use between 1/500 and the pics are all very sharp.
You have to know how to use a camera and not only think that the camera will make all the work for you.
There is no problem make the focus hit the rigt spot when you know how to.
YOU and not the camera will have to predict where the shot is right.
You have to follow the object when you hit the button to make the shot.
The camera cant follow the object you are trying to focus on so that it can take the picture you want.
YOU still have to do all the work.
You wrote “The camera has to be able to predict where the target is going to be when the shutter opens and that is a tall order.”
If you are going to take pictures of moving targets youll have to use fast shutter speeds or you have to follow the objekt simple as that.
Please read the net for more information on how the camera is working and ill promise you can take better pics than you ever could imagine.
You don’t have to buy a camera or lens for 10000$ to get good pics.
Just my advice for you guys.